Summer Frock / Simple Frock

 

This frock is very simple. There are no sleeves & necklines and it's perfectly suitable for the summer season. 

Suspenders (which are to be tied at the shoulder) can be joined at the scye at 4 or at 9, which is about 3 cm (1 ¼”) inside 4. As per the small sketch, these suspenders can also be used to finish the scye 6-4.

Measurement Required: 

    Chest: 50 cm (20”)     Full length:45 cm (18”)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Take two layers of fabric for front & back each, the folding should be at 3 -2.
Square lines from O.
1 – 0	Chest / 4
2 – 0	Full length + ¼”
3 – 1	2.5 to 3 cm ( 1 to 1 ¼”)
4 – 3	¼ Chest (-minus) 1cm (1/4”)
Square down from 4 to 5.
6 – 1	¼ Chest (-minus) 4cm ( 1 ½”)
7 – 2	Same as 6 – 1 plus about 4cm (1 ½”)
Join 6- 7
8 – 7	2cm (3/4”)
Shape 2 – 8
Keep about 3cm (1 ¼”) above 3 -4 and 4 cm
1 ½”below 2 – 8, for inturns.
Length of suspenders = 1/4th Chest + 12.cm (5”)

Toddler's Frock

 

TODDLER'S FROCK

This baby frock is used for toddlers (newborn to three years old). Its upper part is known as the bodice or yoke and the lower part is the skirt. It can be varied with different styles like a collar or maybe made decorative by using lace, frill, smoking, embroidery, applique, etc.

                Detailed features: It can be done with, (1) Pintuck or lace on the front yoke. (2) Opening at back up to half the full length. (3) Skirt joined to the yoke by gathering or tiny pleats. (4) Puffed sleeve. (5)Decorative stitches by colored threads at the bottom round.

Measurement Required: 

Below is the standard measurement for a One-year-old baby. 

Chest………........50 cm   (20”)                                 Shoulder…...........…..11.5 cm  (4 ½”)

Bodice length…..10 cm (4”)                                      Sleeve with shoulder...23 cm (9”)

Frock length….....45 cm (18”)                                   Sleeve –round…….....16.5 cm (6 ½”)

Bodice length =one-fourth chest minus 2.5 cm (1”)

                                                INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Front Bodice: 

Square lines from 0, on a four-layer fold with folds at 1-0 and 4-0.

1-0   = bodice length plus 1 cm(1/4”).

2-0   = one -twelfth chest.

3-0   = one-twelfth chest plus 1 cm (1/4”)

4-0   = one-twelfth chest plus 1 cm (1/4”)

Square down from 4 to 5

              6-4 = 1.5 cm (1/2”).join 2-6.

                        Shape scye 6-5

                7-1 = 1.5 cm (1/2”).shape 7-5.

                Portion 1-7-5 is only for the front.

                Back: 8-0 = 1.5 cm (1/2”).

                Shape neck 8-2.

                9-5 = 1.5 cm (1/2”).

                Shape scye 6-9.

After cutting the patterns of front and back will look like fig. 3 and 4.

                If tucks are to be used for the front, They should be first taken on the material before cutting it. The extra material required for tucks is shown by 0-4-5-9 in fig .5.

Skirt (see fig.2 on page 80).

Full length of frock less bodice length = skirt length.

The bottom round of the skirt is generally kept double the chest measure plus about 25 cm (10”).

Take two layers of material (the upper for the front and lower for the back), with a fold at 10-11.

11-10 =skirt length plus 1.5cm (1/2”)

12-10 and 13-11= one-fourth chest, extra material for gathers or pleats.

14-12 =one-fourth chest, extra material for gathers or pleats.

15-13 =one-fourth chest plus 6.5 cm 9(2 ½”) or

15-11 =one-fourth-bottom round plus 1 cm (1/4”)

Join 14-15. 16-15 =1.5 cm (1/2”)

Shape bottom 13-16. 17-14 =2.5 cm (1”).

18-12 =same as 5 to 1 of the bodice.

Shape front scye 18-17.

19-18 = 1.5cm(1/2”).Shape back scye 19-17.

Keep 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4”) below 11-13-16 for inturns.

The unfolded parts in fig. 6:

1 =Back skirt, 2=front skirt, 3=front bodice

4 =back bodice, 5 and 6= sleeves.

 

BLOUSE DRAFTING

Plain Blouse

FRONT

0-1: 1/8^th Chest round + 2.5”

0-2:  Full Length

0-3:  1/12 Chest round + ¼” or to taste.

0-4: 1/8^th Chest round or to taste.

0-5: Across Shoulder / 2+ ¼”

Square down 5-6.

5-7: ¾”. Join 3-7.

6-8: 1”

1-9: 1/4^th Chest round + 1 ½”.

Shape Scye 7-8-9.

Square down from 9-10.

10-11: ¾”. Join 9-11.

11-12: ½”.

2 – 13: ¾”.

Shape bottom 13-12.

13-14 : 1/12 Chest + ¼”.

9 – 15 and 1 – 16: 2” each.

Darts

Take 1 ¼” dart at 14, ½” dart at 15 and ¼” dart at 16 as shown. If required take ¼” dart at 6 as shown.

Back

0-17: 2.5” or to taste. Shape neck 3-17

Shape Scye 7-18-9 as shown.

Take ½” dart at 14 on line 11 – 2.

Keep ¾” outside 11-9 (of the back) and 12 – 9 (of the front) for inlays.

How to draft a perfect kameez!!

S.No.	Required Measurement	Note your measurement
1	Length of the Kameez
2	Across Shoulder
3	Back Neck depth
4	Front Neck depth
5	Waist Length
6	Hip Length
7	Chest Round
8	Waist round
9	Hip round
10	Sleeve Length
11	Sleeve round
12	Armhole Circumference
13	Upper Sleeve Circumference

 

KAMEEZ - DRAFTING

 

S.No.	Construction		Calculate yours
1	A – B	Full length + 1” (seam allowance)
	A – G	Shoulder Drop which is 1/4” to 1”
2	G – C	Arm hole depth = Armhole depth calculation for various chest measurements are as follows. 28” to 30” = ¼ chest round – ¾” to 1” 31” to 33” = ¼ chest round – 1” to 1 ¼ ” 34” to 36” = ¼ chest round –1 ¼ ” to 2” 37” to 39” = ¼ chest round – 2 ¼ ” to 2 ¾ ” 40” to 42” = ¼ chest round – 3” to 3 ½ ”                       (or)
3	G – C	Upper Sleeve Circumference / 2 + 0.5”)
4	A – D	Front neck depth
5	A – H	Waist Length (14” or 15” is standard measurement for normal figure)
6	H – E	7” is standard (or) ¼ chest – 2”
7	A – I	Neck width : 1/12 chest circumference – (1/4” to 1/2”)
8	D – P	Equal to A – I
9	G – J	1/2 Shoulder width (- ½”)
10	C – K	Chest Line : ¼ Chest +  to (1/2” to  1”)
11	H – L	Waist Line : ¼ Waist + (1/2” to 1”)
12	E – T	Hip Line : ¼ Hip + (1/2” to 1”)
13	B – N	Bottom Line : same as E – T + (1/2” to 2” as desired)
14		Join J&K for back & front arm scye and I & D for front neck with French curve. Join I & F for front neck curve as shown.

  NOTE: 

·         For making Collar kurti / kameez, the back neck depth should be ½” and not more than that.

·         For normal kurti or kameez, you can keep the neck depth as desired.

·         For high neck kurti or kameez, the back neck depth should be 2.5” and not more than that.

·         While making collar kurtis or kameez, shoulder slope is must, which helps the collar to stand upon the neck line. 

·         Use this below calculation for Collar neck: 

S.No.	Construction	For Collar Neck	For High Neck
1	A – F	Back Neck : ½”	Back neck : 1 ½” to 2 ½”
2	G – J	Across Shoulder /2 + ¼”	Across Shoulder / 2 – ½”
3	A – I	Chest Round / 12 – ½”	Chest Round / 12
4	A – G	¾” to 1”	½”

 

SLEEVE - DRAFTING

 

S.No.	Construction		Calculate yours
1	O-A	Sleeve length + ¾” + ½”
2	O – B	Sleeve cap : 1/12 Chest
3	B – B1 B – B2	Upper Sleeve Circumference :  ½ upper sleeve circumference + ½” to 1 ½” (or) ¼ chest – ( ½” to 1”)
4	A1 – A A – A2	Sleeve Bottom round : ½ Sleeve round
5	Join O,B1, A1, A, A2, B2, O & B as shown.
6	C1 & C2 are mid points of OB1 and OB2
7	D1 & D2 are mid points of C1 & B1 and C2 to B2.
8	Join these points as slight curve as shown.

 

Note:

·         The armhole of the front block will always be deeper in the curve then the back.

·         For upper sleeve circumference calculation, add ease allowance according to the chest circumference.

·         If less than 37” add 1” to BB2 + BB1; if 37” to 40” add 1 ½” to BB2 + BB1; if 40” and above add 2” to BB2 + BB1.