How to draft a Churidar

Hi... In this post, you can learn about how to draft a Churidar. Churidar Pyjama - It's a Unisex Garment. The Length of the Churidar will be more than the actual length for it's gathers and there will be some gathers below the Knee to ankle. Churidar goes well with Anarkali Kameez, A- Line Kameez also with regular kurta's. The Cutting part of the Churidar should be done on bias. And it can be done in two ways. One is keeping the draft on the material in bias and other one is preparing bias bag.

Measurements Required for Churidar:

1. Full Length (Eg: 36")
2. Hip Round (Eg: 34")
3. Knee Round (Eg: 14")
4. Bottom Round (Eg: 12")

Drafting:

Construction:

1 to 2 : 2" for Casing.

Mark the point 1 as a starting point. From the point 1, mark 2" and mark it as a 2, which is for inserting the casing.

2 to 3 : 1/3 Hip + 1" (11.3"+2"=13.3")
From the point 2, measure 13.3" and mark it as a no.3,
which is your crotch ending line.

2 to 4 : Full length (i.e. is our actual length 36")
From the point 2, measure 36" and mark it as a 4.

4 to 5 :8" for gathers (if you want more gathers you can keep 10" for gathers)
From the point 4, measure 8" and mark it as no.5.

5 to 6 : 1" for folding
From the point 5, measure 1" & mark it as no.6.

7 is the Mid point of 3 to 4.
Mark no.7 which is the mid point of 3 to 4.

2 to 8 : 1/6th of Hip + 1" (5.6"+1"=5.7")
From the point 2, measure 5.7" and mark it as a no.8.

Now, draw a line from 1 to 6.

1 to 9 : 1/3 Hip + 4" (12"+4" = 16")
From the point 1, measure16" horizontally and mark it as no.9, which is for casing.
Join 1 & 9

2 to 10 : Equal to 1 to 9. (12"+4"=16")
From the point 2, measure16" horizontally and mark it as no.10, which is the waist line.
Join 2 &10.

8 to 13 : 1/3 Hip + 5" (12" + 5" = 17")
From the point 8, measure 17" and mark it as no.13.
Join 8 & 13.

3 to 11: Equal to 1 to 9. (12"+4"=16")
From the point 3, measure 16" horizontally and mark it as no.11, which is the crotch line.

Join 10 & 11.

11 to 12 : 1.5"

12 to 14 : 1.5"

Now, join 3,11,12& 14.

7 to 15 : 1/2 Knee Round + 1/2" (14/2=7+0.5=7.5")
From the point 7, measure 7.5" and mark it as no.15, which is the knee line.
Join 7 & 15.

4 to 16 : 1/2 Bottom Round + 1/2" (14/2=7+0.5=7.5")
From the point 4, measure 7.5" and mark it as no.16.
Join 4 & 16.

5 to 17: 1/2 Bottom Round + 1/2" (14/2=7+0.5=7.5")
From the point 5, measure 7.5" and mark it as no.17.
Join 5 & 17.

6 to 18 : 1/2 Bottom Round + 1/2" (14/2=7+0.5=7.5")
From the point 6, measure 7.5" and mark it as no.18, which is the bottom round.
Join 6 & 18.

Now, join 9,10,13,14 & 15 for back Shape. (Refer the purple line)
Then, Join 9,10,12 & 15 for front Shape.


How to cut the fabric with the help of a pattern.

* Open the folded pattern, and keep it on the fabric.
* Fabric should not be on fold.
* Lay the pattern on the fabric on gross-grain wise.
* Pin the pattern and trace it out.
* Remove the pin & take and pattern and trace it one more time for the another leg.
*Then, cut the fabric on the marked line.

Great.. Now.. your pattern is ready to sew !!
































 

How to draft a Plain Salwar

 

HOW TO DRAFT A PLAIN SALWAR

 

 

 

 

CONSTRUCTION FOR MAKING DRAFTING:

SALWAR :

STEP : 1
O - B  : Full Length - Waist Length + 1 "
Mark a starting point as "O". From the point "O", Mark the required length of the salwar which is Full length (-) waist length.

STEP : 2
O - D  : 1/6 Hip + 1 "
This is the crotch length of the bottom. Take your hip round and divide it by 6 and then add 1". So, if your hip is 36", then the answer will be 36/6=6+1"= 7".
Now, mark 7" from the point "O".

STEP : 3
O - C : 1/2 Width of the Fabric - 2" &
Take the total width of the fabric (mostly it will be around 36" width),and from the width reduce 2". So, it will be 36/2=18-2 = 16". So, you should mark 16" from O and mark it as a C.

STEP : 4
D - F  : Equal to O - C.
From Point D, measure 16" and mark it as F.

STEP : 5
D - E : 1/2 Width of the fabric.
If the fabric width is 36 inches. Then, divide it by 2 which is 36/2 = 18".
From the point D, measure 18" and mark it as E.

STEP : 6
B - G : 1/2 Bottom Round + 1"
If the bottom round is 12 inches, divide it by 2 which is 13/2 = 6 +1" = 7".
Now, From the point B, mark 7 inches and mark it as G.

STEP : 7
Now, join E & C by a curved line.

Now, your pattern is ready to cut.

Waist Band:

STEP : 1
D - A : 7"
Measure 7" from the point O and mark it as A which is the Waist Length.

E - C : 1/2 Hip + 3.5"
If the hip round is 36 inches, then divide it by 2, 36/2 =18". From point O, measure 18 inches and mark it as B.

O - D : 2.5"
Measure 2.5" from the point D and mark it as O.

B - E : 2.5"
Measure 2.5" from the point E and mark it as B.

Make a rectangle shape as shown in the figure.
Now, the Waist Band pattern also is ready to cut.








 

Plain Skirt

Plain Skirt



 

Front :

0 - 3 : Full Length
0 - 1 : 3/4"
1 - 2 : 7" for seat line
0 - 4 : 1/4 seat - 1 1/2"
4 - 5 : 7"
2 - 5 : 1/4 seat - 1/2"
4 - 6 : equal to 3 to 1 + 1/2"
Join 4,5 & 6 as shown.
Shape 7 to 1 as shown for waist line.

Back:

0 - 3 : Full Length
0 - 1 : 3/4"
1 - 2 : 7" for seat line
1 - 3 : length - belt width+1/4"
0 - 4 : 1/4 seat +  1/2"  (i.e 2" more than front waist line)
4 - 5 : 7"
2 - 5 : 1/4 seat + 1 1/2"
4 - 6 : equal to 3 to  1/2"
Join 4,5 & 6 as shown.
Shape 3 & 6.
Shape 7 to 1 as shown for waist line.
1 - 8 : 1/4 waist +1/4"
Divide 1-7 in three equal parts, viz. 1-9, 9-10 and 10-7.
Take darts at 9 and 10, keeping the width equal to  half of 8-7.
Length of the dart : 4"
For inturns keep 2" below 6-3 (for front & back).