How to draft a perfect kameez!!

S.No.	Required Measurement	Note your measurement
1	Length of the Kameez
2	Across Shoulder
3	Back Neck depth
4	Front Neck depth
5	Waist Length
6	Hip Length
7	Chest Round
8	Waist round
9	Hip round
10	Sleeve Length
11	Sleeve round
12	Armhole Circumference
13	Upper Sleeve Circumference

 

KAMEEZ - DRAFTING

 

S.No.	Construction		Calculate yours
1	A – B	Full length + 1” (seam allowance)
	A – G	Shoulder Drop which is 1/4” to 1”
2	G – C	Arm hole depth = Armhole depth calculation for various chest measurements are as follows. 28” to 30” = ¼ chest round – ¾” to 1” 31” to 33” = ¼ chest round – 1” to 1 ¼ ” 34” to 36” = ¼ chest round –1 ¼ ” to 2” 37” to 39” = ¼ chest round – 2 ¼ ” to 2 ¾ ” 40” to 42” = ¼ chest round – 3” to 3 ½ ”                       (or)
3	G – C	Upper Sleeve Circumference / 2 + 0.5”)
4	A – D	Front neck depth
5	A – H	Waist Length (14” or 15” is standard measurement for normal figure)
6	H – E	7” is standard (or) ¼ chest – 2”
7	A – I	Neck width : 1/12 chest circumference – (1/4” to 1/2”)
8	D – P	Equal to A – I
9	G – J	1/2 Shoulder width (- ½”)
10	C – K	Chest Line : ¼ Chest +  to (1/2” to  1”)
11	H – L	Waist Line : ¼ Waist + (1/2” to 1”)
12	E – T	Hip Line : ¼ Hip + (1/2” to 1”)
13	B – N	Bottom Line : same as E – T + (1/2” to 2” as desired)
14		Join J&K for back & front arm scye and I & D for front neck with French curve. Join I & F for front neck curve as shown.

  NOTE: 

·         For making Collar kurti / kameez, the back neck depth should be ½” and not more than that.

·         For normal kurti or kameez, you can keep the neck depth as desired.

·         For high neck kurti or kameez, the back neck depth should be 2.5” and not more than that.

·         While making collar kurtis or kameez, shoulder slope is must, which helps the collar to stand upon the neck line. 

·         Use this below calculation for Collar neck: 

S.No.	Construction	For Collar Neck	For High Neck
1	A – F	Back Neck : ½”	Back neck : 1 ½” to 2 ½”
2	G – J	Across Shoulder /2 + ¼”	Across Shoulder / 2 – ½”
3	A – I	Chest Round / 12 – ½”	Chest Round / 12
4	A – G	¾” to 1”	½”

 

SLEEVE - DRAFTING

 

S.No.	Construction		Calculate yours
1	O-A	Sleeve length + ¾” + ½”
2	O – B	Sleeve cap : 1/12 Chest
3	B – B1 B – B2	Upper Sleeve Circumference :  ½ upper sleeve circumference + ½” to 1 ½” (or) ¼ chest – ( ½” to 1”)
4	A1 – A A – A2	Sleeve Bottom round : ½ Sleeve round
5	Join O,B1, A1, A, A2, B2, O & B as shown.
6	C1 & C2 are mid points of OB1 and OB2
7	D1 & D2 are mid points of C1 & B1 and C2 to B2.
8	Join these points as slight curve as shown.

 

Note:

·         The armhole of the front block will always be deeper in the curve then the back.

·         For upper sleeve circumference calculation, add ease allowance according to the chest circumference.

·         If less than 37” add 1” to BB2 + BB1; if 37” to 40” add 1 ½” to BB2 + BB1; if 40” and above add 2” to BB2 + BB1.